Planning a Trip to Chamonix, Part 3

On The Ground Details Chamonix

Now there is no question, you’re officially going on an international ski trip. Of course, you pray for snow, and start putting in your good karma points. But it’s also time to start looking at all the other major points to think about. Things like ground transport, lift passes, taking gear or renting it there, where to eat, drink and party, and rainy day activities if all else fails. Ooh, don’t forget guide services if you plan on skiing the Vallee Blanche off the Aiguille du Midi tram.

PR Photo from famous Blizzard of Aahhh's movie, filmed in part in Chamonix

Getting to Chamonix Once on the Ground

Europe being Europe, with France a major part, there are railways everywhere with active trains, not once every three days or only on weekends. More like 10 trains a day from Geneva to Chamonix, my arrival airport in Europe and of course my final destination. Trains are generally damn efficient and cost effective. However, in this situation, and as romantic and charming as trains are, I’ll be taking a coach style bus. There are much smaller, 10-15 person, shuttle vans also available, and of course, for hire private vans, which might be a great option if the whole six person family is going. A large bus is a pay per person situation, so when you add everything up as a family, especially if you have small children, it might be worth it to just hire a private van or sport utility Suburban type vehicle. For me, and savvy solo travelers who can tell left from right and have basic travel knowledge, the large, 50 person coach bus is the most direct, cheap and efficient way of getting from Geneva airport to Chamonix city center. 

Lift Passes

Next up is lift tickets or passes. Day by day is certainly an option, and one of the major ways that things become cheaper skiing in Europe instead of Colorado, Wyoming or California. Walk up day tickets are in the $75 range, instead of $250-300 which is the range for Colorado resorts these days. The Mont Blanc Unlimited pass covers six days of skiing at all five resorts in the Chamonix Valley, also includes the famous Aiguille du Midi tram, Montenvers-Mer de Glace train (from the bottom of glacier in Vallee Blanche), other local trams, access to Courmayeur lift system in Italy, use of the Richard Bozon sports centre in Chamonix (you know, for HOT TUBS) and discounts on the local Chamonix cinema (I mean, chillin with a good movie in French just might be what you need after a hardy day of skiing), all for 432 euros. Not for one day, but six! I believe it also helps with all the local buses and trains to other towns. 

Gear and Guide Services

I will be taking all my own gear, including avalanche safety equipment and glacier travel climbing harness, but am also researching where to rent some other specialty gear like crampons and ice screws. Also, along these lines, after doing research on this topic, I will hire a guide from the central guide service in town,  Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, doing the group thing for my first day of skiing the Vallee Blanche. They do this every day of the winter, you just go in and say how many people, and they put you in a group, kind of like golfing foursomes. Being extremely fit, living in a ski town in Colorado at an elevation of 9600 feet, and skiing 100 days/year, I will almost certainly be with a group that most likely is frustratingly slow. I also spend 99% of my ski time skiing solo, but hey, that’s the way it goes when you’re doing this type of trip basically blind. My motto is to spend a bit of time getting to know the area, meaning the ski terrain, the glacier terrain, and just skiing in a different country that is literally the birthplace of extreme skiing, where the wrong fall at the wrong time can mean a long slide to death. Not to sugar coat it or anything, but this is the absolute truth and I have the utmost respect for where I’m going. 

The eat, drink and party part of things is a research project constantly in the works. I don’t have the heads up on the newest, most elite, most underground apres party spot in town. However, at least for me, I live in a ski resort town (Breckenridge, CO) and understand the ebbs and flows of mountain towns. I understand mountain people. I also plan on treating myself to good food and wine. I work in the food and beverage restaurant industry and plan on talking to locals and sort of following them for apres and whatever else. Along that line of thinking, plan on doing at least some very basic practice and understanding of the French language. Don’t be the dumb obnoxious American fraternity boy and expect everyone to speak English. Learn how to say hello, please and thank you, and this will go a very long way. The French are a touch more formal in the restaurant and cafe space than Americans. So do some research, learn some basic phrases and be chill. Unless you have money like Taylor Swift, and they know who she is, so don’t worry. 

Top station of Aiguille du Midi Tram with famous ridge in foreground. 

Rainy Day Plans

Lastly, rainy day plans. Depends on who you are and what interests you. I love train travel, so I plan on taking the train to Courmayeur, Italy one day, and skiing that side of things, or that side of Mont Blanc. I also might travel to nearby towns in Italy that have nothing to do with skiing, but have everything to do with food and wine. As mentioned, I work as a server at a very nice restaurant, and have done this for many years. I also know that some of my favorite wine is produced in Italy, not all that far from Chamonix. A nice train trip could lead to an unknown treasure day of wine tasting in Alba, Italy, along with eating my weight in local cuisine. Also, I eat everything and anything, with no dietary restrictions whatsoever. (I am Type 1 Diabetic, but food is food, and I can usually tell what my insulin needs are.) I also will try everything and embrace local food and drink. Northern Italy is basically dreamland to me, and it’s a very short train ride away, so if the skiing sucks in Chamonix, guess where I’m going. 

So, just do some fun research on YouTube. Talk to anyone that’s been in these countries recently. Remember to have fun and enjoy yourself. I’m treating this Chamonix ski trip as if it might be the only time I ever visit this famous alpine town. But I also plan on fitting in and acting like a local. I like mountain towns all over the world because I do fit in. I understand why people live in these beautiful, often harsh, always expensive places to live. I get it, and that’s why I choose to vacation in mountain towns.