Planning a Trip to Chamonix, Part 3

On The Ground Details Chamonix

Now there is no question, you’re officially going on an international ski trip. Of course, you pray for snow, and start putting in your good karma points. But it’s also time to start looking at all the other major points to think about. Things like ground transport, lift passes, taking gear or renting it there, where to eat, drink and party, and rainy day activities if all else fails. Ooh, don’t forget guide services if you plan on skiing the Vallee Blanche off the Aiguille du Midi tram.

PR Photo from famous Blizzard of Aahhh's movie, filmed in part in Chamonix

Getting to Chamonix Once on the Ground

Europe being Europe, with France a major part, there are railways everywhere with active trains, not once every three days or only on weekends. More like 10 trains a day from Geneva to Chamonix, my arrival airport in Europe and of course my final destination. Trains are generally damn efficient and cost effective. However, in this situation, and as romantic and charming as trains are, I’ll be taking a coach style bus. There are much smaller, 10-15 person, shuttle vans also available, and of course, for hire private vans, which might be a great option if the whole six person family is going. A large bus is a pay per person situation, so when you add everything up as a family, especially if you have small children, it might be worth it to just hire a private van or sport utility Suburban type vehicle. For me, and savvy solo travelers who can tell left from right and have basic travel knowledge, the large, 50 person coach bus is the most direct, cheap and efficient way of getting from Geneva airport to Chamonix city center. 

Lift Passes

Next up is lift tickets or passes. Day by day is certainly an option, and one of the major ways that things become cheaper skiing in Europe instead of Colorado, Wyoming or California. Walk up day tickets are in the $75 range, instead of $250-300 which is the range for Colorado resorts these days. The Mont Blanc Unlimited pass covers six days of skiing at all five resorts in the Chamonix Valley, also includes the famous Aiguille du Midi tram, Montenvers-Mer de Glace train (from the bottom of glacier in Vallee Blanche), other local trams, access to Courmayeur lift system in Italy, use of the Richard Bozon sports centre in Chamonix (you know, for HOT TUBS) and discounts on the local Chamonix cinema (I mean, chillin with a good movie in French just might be what you need after a hardy day of skiing), all for 432 euros. Not for one day, but six! I believe it also helps with all the local buses and trains to other towns. 

Gear and Guide Services

I will be taking all my own gear, including avalanche safety equipment and glacier travel climbing harness, but am also researching where to rent some other specialty gear like crampons and ice screws. Also, along these lines, after doing research on this topic, I will hire a guide from the central guide service in town,  Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, doing the group thing for my first day of skiing the Vallee Blanche. They do this every day of the winter, you just go in and say how many people, and they put you in a group, kind of like golfing foursomes. Being extremely fit, living in a ski town in Colorado at an elevation of 9600 feet, and skiing 100 days/year, I will almost certainly be with a group that most likely is frustratingly slow. I also spend 99% of my ski time skiing solo, but hey, that’s the way it goes when you’re doing this type of trip basically blind. My motto is to spend a bit of time getting to know the area, meaning the ski terrain, the glacier terrain, and just skiing in a different country that is literally the birthplace of extreme skiing, where the wrong fall at the wrong time can mean a long slide to death. Not to sugar coat it or anything, but this is the absolute truth and I have the utmost respect for where I’m going. 

The eat, drink and party part of things is a research project constantly in the works. I don’t have the heads up on the newest, most elite, most underground apres party spot in town. However, at least for me, I live in a ski resort town (Breckenridge, CO) and understand the ebbs and flows of mountain towns. I understand mountain people. I also plan on treating myself to good food and wine. I work in the food and beverage restaurant industry and plan on talking to locals and sort of following them for apres and whatever else. Along that line of thinking, plan on doing at least some very basic practice and understanding of the French language. Don’t be the dumb obnoxious American fraternity boy and expect everyone to speak English. Learn how to say hello, please and thank you, and this will go a very long way. The French are a touch more formal in the restaurant and cafe space than Americans. So do some research, learn some basic phrases and be chill. Unless you have money like Taylor Swift, and they know who she is, so don’t worry. 

Top station of Aiguille du Midi Tram with famous ridge in foreground. 

Rainy Day Plans

Lastly, rainy day plans. Depends on who you are and what interests you. I love train travel, so I plan on taking the train to Courmayeur, Italy one day, and skiing that side of things, or that side of Mont Blanc. I also might travel to nearby towns in Italy that have nothing to do with skiing, but have everything to do with food and wine. As mentioned, I work as a server at a very nice restaurant, and have done this for many years. I also know that some of my favorite wine is produced in Italy, not all that far from Chamonix. A nice train trip could lead to an unknown treasure day of wine tasting in Alba, Italy, along with eating my weight in local cuisine. Also, I eat everything and anything, with no dietary restrictions whatsoever. (I am Type 1 Diabetic, but food is food, and I can usually tell what my insulin needs are.) I also will try everything and embrace local food and drink. Northern Italy is basically dreamland to me, and it’s a very short train ride away, so if the skiing sucks in Chamonix, guess where I’m going. 

So, just do some fun research on YouTube. Talk to anyone that’s been in these countries recently. Remember to have fun and enjoy yourself. I’m treating this Chamonix ski trip as if it might be the only time I ever visit this famous alpine town. But I also plan on fitting in and acting like a local. I like mountain towns all over the world because I do fit in. I understand why people live in these beautiful, often harsh, always expensive places to live. I get it, and that’s why I choose to vacation in mountain towns.

Planning a Trip to Chamonix, France Part 2

 

Heading to Cham

Ok, you’ve made the decision, you’re going. An international ski trip is in your future. It’s a very big deal and good on you for making that crucial decision. You clicked “Purchase” on the website and bought plane tickets. It doesn’t matter where you go, but now things are in motion and you have to follow up on a number of items. First off, where to stay? 

This is important to do as quickly as you can, especially if you’re going somewhere that is either really busy, or doing busy times (the holiday season, holiday weekends, depends on many variables, and can be very different in different places) or both. But as soon as you book those plane tickets, start looking for where you are going to stay. Most of the time, this research should be done simultaneously. 

For this trip to Chamonix, I chose to stay in two different hostels, yes, hostels. Sure, you’ve heard nightmare stories about staying in youth hostels that doubled as a weekend long, 24 hr/day rave, filled with music and all the drugs typical teenagers can consume, but those are just stories, and not for you to be worried about. Do your research and find what works for you. 

The price of hostel stays are always what attracts me to them. Also meeting fellow travelers who are there for a certain thing, like skiing, or trail running. I love the luxury hotels and all the amenities that come with them, and there is certainly a a time and place to stay in the fancy digs. On this trip, which is very much a recon trip for many reasons for myself (not only am I returning to free-lance writing, but I might be looking for a longer stay space for next winter), I’m there to ski and do as much as I can outside of my bedroom and sleeping space. I’m skiing and eating and drinking out as much as I can. I’m saving money on sleeping, in order to spend it on food and booze. And baked goods from every bakery, cafe, and pâtisserie I can find.

Details

    ~Vert Lodge Chamonix https://www.vertlodge.com/

    ~Chamonix Lodge https://www.chamonixlodge.com/

Planning a Trip to Chamonix, France Part 1 

Ski hut somewhere in Austrian Alps Photo courtesy Lisa Seaman

Let me tell you, planning an international ski vacation is not for the faint of heart. I don’t even have kids or a wife to worry about. But I do love to ski, and love even more skiing high quality conditions in beautiful, historic places. So I recently made the big decision to go to Chamonix, France for a very big deal trip. I hope it will not be a once-in-a-lifetime trip, but I am taking things seriously, and doing the best I can to work out every detail I can before I go. 

Chamonix has been on my wish list for at least 35 years, which is most of my life. You see, I don’t come from a skiing family. I grew up in Pittsburgh, PA, not far from ski resorts, but not exactly a hotbed of skiing passion. I went on a school trip when I was 11 and fell in love with everything that was part of the deal of “going skiing”. Over the next couple years, I devoured everything skiing that I could find, and eventually came across some ski movies that showcased the French mountain town of Chamonix. 

High ridge in Austria/Italy Photo courtesy Lisa Seaman

Then came “Blizzard of Aahhhs” and a changing point in my life. Seeing Glen Plake, Scot Schmidt, and Mike Hattrup ski terrain so steep, that one fall in the wrong place, and yes, you could die, was everything me as a young athlete and adrenaline junkie could ever want. Rappelling from the bridge under the Aiguille du Midi tram, then skiing a 50º slope, (which really took me a while to truly understand how steep this was. Great cinematography by the way Stump and crew.), was everything I wanted out of life. 

Chamonix became my spirit animal for the next stages of my life. Onto the current time frame, and I’m going. But it wasn’t without inner turmoil and some stress. Even though I’m totally single, with no connections of any kind, not even a dog, I am 52 years old, and Type 1 Diabetic. Also going on this trip solo, which brings its own kind of stress. I don’t know anyone over there, and even though I make friends quickly, again, I’m 52, and just not into the things I was into when I was 22. But here I am. I did it, I bought the plane tickets, I’m going. 

Gotta earn your turns. Photo courtesy Lisa Seaman

This leads me to my next point of discussion: When to go, and when to purchase plane tickets? For someone like me, I want the best snow I can get, I’m not just going to ski the bunny slopes, take some Instagram shots and call it good. I’ve lived in Breckenridge, CO for over 25 years, I moved out here to ski. I traveled all over the American West and skied in Europe a few times. I’ve skied legendary blower pow in some of the best ski resorts and backcountry locations many times. I’ve also skied complete garbage and moved on to see another day. I am an Expert Plus skier and am comfortable in uncomfortable places. I’m just trying to give you a little idea of who I am, and what I want when I pay hard earned money to go on a ski vacation. I want the best. I also am completely aware that going to the central Alps, planning months ahead, might not be the best thing to gamble on. But hey, I’ve wanted to go my entire life, so I’m going. 

You gotta make the decision to go, and then when. Then start researching airfare and what’s the best for you. We’re all different, I’ve covered that, but I came up with late January/early February as the best time for me, and after a few weeks of looking, I found a killer deal on plane tickets to Geneva. GVA is the closest major airport to Chamonix, with quick and common transfers between the two locations. Yes, there are many choices for where to fly into, and how to get into Cham, but Geneva was the best for me. So I booked it. (If you must know, Denver > GVA, with 2 stops, one checked bag and one carry on (ski bag) was about $750. Deals come and go, this story is not about finding the absolute best, smoking deal. But do look around, you might be surprised. I bought about three months in advance.)

Skiing, my happy place. Photo courtesy Lisa Seaman

 What To Do In Breckenridge if You Don’t Ski

Dog sledding in beautiful Breckenridge, CO. Photo courtesy GoBreck

Breckenridge, Colorado is a picturesque, historic mining town, perched high in the Rocky Mountains. Blessed with beautiful weather, it has become a tourism and vacation powerhouse year round. Skiing is definitely the draw in the winter, with an assortment of outdoor activities drawing people in the summer months. It’s also become one of the busiest AirBnB vacation rental markets in the United States, which makes it really easy to book a stay here. 

Annual Race of the Santas in downtown Breckenridge. Photo Daniel Dunn

This exact situation happens a lot. Multiple generations of a family will book a large home and spend some quality time together. So many in fact, come to Breckenridge, that many folks don’t ski or snowboard at all. Many different reasons attract people to Breckenridge for some relaxing time away from home, but that begs the question, “What should I do in town when my family is out skiing all day?” Well this article is for you. There are so many different things to do, that no list is complete, but in all honesty, you can enjoy one day, or a week, without ever touching the ski slopes, and completely enjoy yourself.

Enjoy all the different events that happen in this beautiful little town. Photo Daniel Dunn

 

Please keep in mind that everything on this list can be found easily on the Googles. Just open your phone and search for “Breckenridge gondola”. This is a lot easier than me telling you specific information. 

Isak Hearthstone the troll sculpture is a must see. Photo courtesy GoBreck

The first bit of advice, I highly encourage you to walk around the downtown core. Breckenridge is full of independent restaurants, bars, and retail stores. You can also entertain yourself by looking at the real estate postings on all of the offices, as you might be surprised by the prices. Breckenridge is a 120 year old mining town. The streets and sidewalks are narrow, and very often covered in snow and ice. This is very different from where you came from, but these are the reasons you’re here. You want to see a cool place, and Breckenridge is an incredibly cool place. Embrace the fact that you don’t know the names of any restaurants here, or what they serve. Have a beer at happy hour and listen to some grumpy locals tell stories of skiing the steeps, or hooking the biggest rainbow trout they’ve ever seen. You won’t be disappointed. 

The gondola is free to ride year round. Photo courtesy GoBreck

Parades and town events are not to be missed. General goofiness is the name of the game, you probably won’t recognize many of the floats from the typical Macy’s Day boringness you see on mainstream TV. Have fun, enjoy yourself and realize that Breckenridge is a place to relax. No one cares where you’re from, and what car you drive. What we do care about are things like, can we pet your dog or how was the fishing today? We might tell you our favorite pizza is Breck Ale House and new snow is the thing that makes us the happiest.

1. Sledding, Carter Park, Airport Rd.

2. Downtown shopping

3. Eating out at restaurants

4. Coffee shops

5. Fly fishing, ice fishing

6. Sleigh rides

7. Snowmobiles - Good Times? 

8. Rec center, tennis center

9. Ice skating, Stephen C. West ice arena, also Grand Colorado Peak 8

10. Tubing, Frisco

11. Outlet store shopping, Silverthorne 

12. Gondola ride, from town up to Peak 8 base area 

13. Build a snowman, lots of snow

14. Nordic ski, Breckenridge Nordic Center, Gold Run Nordic Center 

15. Snowshoe

16. Enjoy arts district, take a class

17. Pottery party with booze, Ready Paint Fire

18. Ullr Fest, Mardi Gras, Lighting of Breck, Race of the Santas, longest shot ski- multiple festivals, town functions

19. Go see World Cup downhill ski racing in Beaver Creek

20. Hike to Isak Heartstone troll sculpture

21. Visit historical train park close to ice rink

22. Dog sledding, Good Times 

23. Fat biking

24. Various museums

25. Library

26. Be an Instagram star

27. Snowcat tour

28. Historic downtown tour, Go Breck 

29. Get a massage

30. Breweries, distilleries 

31. Local hike Sally Barber, year round

Moose are always around, keep your eyes open. Photo Daniel Dunn